4. Kranjske Gora, the Julian Alps & the Soca Valley

Heading northwards to the Julian Alps (named after Julius Caesar) our base was just outside of Kranjska Gora - a really quaint mountain town, extremely popular for skiing in the winter. But as with the whole of this region, summer sports and activities are really popular too - walking, biking, climbing, paragliding, as well as a range of water activities along the rivers. The Mountain views were stunning, with small pockets of snow visible on the highest slopes. Unfortunately the weather forecast was not good  and getting worse - seems that we were experiencing the outer reaches of Storm Boris, which was starting to batter significant parts of central Europe immediately above where we were staying 😢

Our camp for a few days

So before the storm actually arrived, we took the opportunity to head back into the Triglav National Park to find the much reviewed waterfalls of Martuljek. Walking directly from the campsite the views were stunning, and interesting climbing up through dense forests, along narrow walkways, and with beautiful glimpses of the crystal clear Sava river below. It was amazing to see all the small stupas which people had built along the river path, symbols of having been there and of leaving your mark. Of course we had to build one too 🤣 Had been hoping for a swim in the river, but unfortunately the forecast change in weather arrived sooner than expected, with temperatures plummeting, so sadly too cold for me. Not that Dave was deterred though - a quick (skinny) dip in the icy cold waters seemed to rejuvenate him after the drive 🤣 The waterfalls are really quite spectacular, and certainly one of the Slovenian natural resources that are heavily promoted through their tourism program. 

Crossing the Sava

Start of the lower Martuljek falls

Ruby not so keen to lead the way now 🤣

The higher Martuljek falls

The riverbed of stupas

Our stupa 😃

Time for a dip 🤣

Then the accurately forecast rains arrived - not the first time we’ve been caught in severe weather while travelling in Europe in the last few years..  It really is quite frightening just how quickly the weather changes, and the severity. It really was a case of sitting tight for about 24 hours and hoping that we didn’t get blown or washed away 🤞 Interesting to be, yet again, at the mercy of extreme and unpredictable weather conditions, often out of sync with the normal seasonal expectations. Places were starting to flood, giving us a small glimpse into the horrific problems which Slovenia has had with flooding in recent times, damaging both infrastructure and crops. We later heard of the awful devastation caused by this current storm in Austria and Poland, and sadly with some loss of lives. 

But gazing at the mountains from our van, Dave had more poetic inspiration……

The Mountain 

The mountain, repository in human minds of so many stories, the folklore and the legends, the fact and the fiction

Awakes daily from its slumber, untouched by human fables

It remains stoic in its presence, it just is, amongst its kind

No need for stories to enrich its history, or the machinations of the human mind

It accepts unquestioningly the primal forces that act upon its nature

The same forces human nature attempts to control and tame

After around 24 hours the rains thankfully stopped. People started to emerge from their vans. It was weird though as there really did feel a sense of calm after the storm passes (for now at least). Took this opportunity to get out on our bikes. Again, the car free green cycle ways are brilliant, going for miles and miles through the valleys. Picking the track up directly from the campsite, we set off west, aiming for Italy 🤣 It isn’t quite as momentous as it sounds, as the border with Slovenia was only around 15k away, but we did feel like quite intrepid adventurers pedalling our way across borders into another country  - felt quite exotic 🤣 We had wondered what our chances were of getting some tasty Italian food on our ride, but sadly, bad timing 😢 But we did come across a most beautiful aqua green lake over the Italian border, just a couple of km off the cycle track, which was a really pleasant diversion before heading back - Lago Fusine - so peaceful and serene.

Our border crossing on the cycle path  

Feels very exotic 🤣

Fantastic greenway cycle routes 

Lago Fusine

Couldn’t leave Kranjske Gora without a walk along the river up to the beautiful Lake Jasna - a really popular excursion from the town. Great for a potter around and a coffee in the sun 🌞 The rivers are so crystal clear - perfect for a quick swim for Ruby (and us if it had been a bit warmer 😢).

Pottering along the river

Fabulous swimming opportunities for Rubes 🤣

Lake Jasna 

Time for a coffee 

Love the Slovenian changing huts 🤣

Our plan was to head next to the western side of the Alps, along the Soca Valley. Getting there offers two main options - the first being via the Vrsic Pass - the highest road pass in the Julian Alps (1611m). Only 24km, but with 50 notorious hairpin bends, yet described by many as the most scenic and stunning alpine pass in the whole of Europe. This was our preferred, and intended option until we were advised by staff at the campsite that it would be very tricky navigating this in the van! So, not wanting to set ourselves too much of a challenge, we opted for the alternative route - also over a stunning mountain pass, the Predel Pass, but this one not so challenging, and which crisscrossed the Slovenia - Italian border. Stopped for a few photo opportunities, and also for a walk up to Slap Boka - Slovenia’s highest waterfall. It was impressive, but I still think the waterfall we saw in the Logar Valley - Rinka (second highest) was more spectacular 🤣

Walking routes from the top of the Predel Pass

Crossing the Predel Pass

Boka waterfall 

Arriving on the western side of the mountains we were keen to spend some time along the Soca river - extremely scenic and popular with water sports. We based ourselves at Kobarid - a small town with an interesting WW1 history, this part of the Soca being the front line for Italian troops facing the Austro-German forces. Remains of the former front line and battles remain, with an interesting heritage trail incorporating the original Italian bunkers. Also interesting to read about the turbulent history of Kobarid, ownership having passed between Italy, Yugoslavia, Slovenia and Austria over the years. 

Unfortunately we were still struggling with the fall out of Storm Boris, and indeed the weather was forecast to get worse 😢 We had by this time well and truly lost the excessive heatwave that the country had been experiencing for the past few weeks (sadly one of the causation factors in Storm Boris). So we knocked the idea of rafting on the head, and opted for a walk along the river instead. Shame really about the weather as we had hoped to do more 😢

The Soca is truly spectacular - a vivid aqua green colour all the way long - quite striking really 🤔 A bit too fast flowing though for swimming - but again, Ruby managed to find a few choice spots along the edges for a quick dip. Thankfully she is very wary of fast flowing water, so no worries about her diving straight in here 🤣 The countryside was beautiful too - sunflowers still in bloom everywhere, often planted as part of small cultivated vegetable plots in the middle of much larger uncultivated landscapes. Seems like many people have their own small allotment areas randomly placed throughout the landscape - a form of guerrilla gardening? Also noticing a lot of  bee keeping and honey production on our travels - perhaps enhanced by what seems like expanses of uncultivated fields of wild flowers 👍

Not sure what’s happened here!

Canoeing on the Soca

Braving it 🤣

Crossing the Soca

Aqua green Soca

Cultivated mini plots of vegetables & sunflowers

Italian trenches 

Sleeping bunks in the Italian trenches

Napoleon’s Bridege over the Soca at Kobarid - built for him to march his troops over 🤣

Biking was a bit too adventurous for me around this area, but Dave went off exploring the mountain slopes and valleys. I stayed back at camp with Rubes - time to catch up on a bit of blogging, and reading - currently half way through Kala by Colin Walsh - excellent 👌 

Although we hadn’t really warmed to the camp on arrival (probably to do with the bad weather), we did grow quite fond of it in the end - with a couple of its redeeming features being the lovely bar area overlooking the river (serving delicious Lasko beer), and the most divine freshly baked pistachio croissants in the mornings! Think the cafe attendant knew what Dave wanted each morning before he actually asked 🤣 We couldn’t leave the camp though without buying some of the local cherry schnapps - a specialty of this region, - and assured by the shop owner that it was locally homemade (moonshine!)  - schnapps being the national drink of Slovenia 🤣 Interestingly, Slovenia has the highest recorded alcohol consumption globally, and that’s only according to the official statistics 🤣

Refreshing Lasko by the river

A perfect start to the day 

Rubes hoping for a taste 🤞

Locally produced cherry schnapps 

Loved the way the camp reception & bar were built around the tree 🤣

Sadly the weather cut short our stay in Kobarid, and we decided to move south, leaving the mountains, and hoping to leave the worst of Storm Boris behind. But this whole region is definitely a place to return to in the future - so much more to do and explore, but under more favourable weather conditions 🤞